GLOW Shawty, It's Ya Birthday! Exfoliation Treatments 101

OK lets go over EXFOLIATION services! Specifically- Dermaplaning, Microdermabrasions, and Chemical Peels. Why? Because they are three of my favorite services and you most likely need one. I don’t even know what you look like or who is reading this, and I already know you need one, it’s a gift.

Now, what do Micros, Chemical peels and Dermaplaning all have in common? They are all exfoliation services to ensure that we are turning over dead skin cells in a timely manner. As I mentioned in my previous post about the importance of exfoliation (Click to read!), our skin cells (on their own) renew themselves every 28-45 days. The older we get, the slower this turnover becomes. Now, can you let nature take its course and allow your body to exfoliate slowly on its own? Sure. While you're at it, you should eat a bunch of cupcakes and bacon and just lay in bed hoping you work off the weight with your BREATHING calories. PSH! Girl, please! Ain’t nobody got time for that. Look at these treatments as a speeded up BETTER option. With any of these exfoliation services- you will be regenerating new and healthy skin cells, evening and brightening skin tone, lightening and correcting scarring, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles and dimishing dull and tired skin (just to name a few)!

Exfoliation is one of the number one preventatives and correctives for aging. The outermost layer of our skin is FILLED with dead skin cells. Not only is that gross in itself, but these dead cells are preventing our precious serums and moisturizers from doing the most that they can! Dead skin build up can cause the skin to appear dull, textured and dry. Exfoliation is not only HUGE for aging, but seriously crucial for blemished skins as well. Without removing the dead skin cells, we are causing a build up which results in excess oil production leading to clogged pores. We all know what clogged pores create…. ACNE!

Let's break these treatment options down...

Chemical Peels: Also known as superficial peeling or chemical exfoliation. Chemical peels have been around since the Cleopatra days. Honestly, that B really knew her beauty shit and I really think we would have been homegirls. I personally feel like the term “Chemical Peel” sounds scary, but it really doesn’t have to be! The purpose of a Chemical Peel is to literally peel your imperfect skin off to reveal newer healthier skin. Think of it as a snake shedding their old skin! This method is accomplished through the use of acids. Again, another scary word that doesn’t necessarily need to be. There are a wide range of different peels you can receive, some very mild, while others can be pretty intense. Peeling (shedding) typically doesn’t start until 2-3 days after your appointment and can last about 5-10 days depending on how deep the peel was. When I say mild, I mean there will likely be some moderate flaking, typically mostly around the mouth/chin area. Intense would mean full face peeling in larger pieces. The important thing to know when going into a chemical peel is that you must be okay with the flaking/peeling. It is very crucial you allow the skin to fall off on its own and that you do not pull it off yourself (causing hyper pigmentation and permanent scarring).

The end results of a peel (post-shedding and if cared for properly) are beautiful and leave your skin looking fresh, tight, and glowing. This exfoliation service definitely has the most down time compared to micros and dermaplaning, so it isn’t for everyone. However, depending on the targeted skin issue, chemical peels are typically much more beneficial at reaching a deeper rooted issue, such as acne and discoloration. The amount of exfoliation with peels is greater than microdermabrasions and dermaplaning because those two services are more superficial, meaning they play more of a role on the outermost layer of your skin, whereas peels (due to the acids), have the ability to reach deeper layers of the skin.

Microdermabrasion: This exfoliation method is one of my favorite treatments. There are two types of micro machines- Diamond and Crystal. Both systems have similar methods and results, it really just depends on which type of machine your Esthetician has. I personally use the Diamond Tip, and happen to think it’s better than a Crystal (sorry not sorry, snitches), so that is what I am going to be going into detail about. The reason I love micros so much, is because they have amazing results with minimal downtime after the treatment. The treatment is done with a diamond encrusted wand (not Tiffanys, but it’ll do) attached to a “vacuum”. The pressure from the vacuum is used to pull the skin up, causing stimulation and blood flow which helps produce collagen, while the diamond tipped wand glides across the skin removing dead skin cells and smoothing the skin. This procedure is typically non-invasive, painless and great for majority skin types! Not to mention, it’s exciting for me to perform because I am a sick weirdo who loves looking at the filter after each appointment and seeing the amount of dead skin I was able to get off. What can I say, I’m clearly in the right profession!

Dermaplaning: OK- Dermaplanes (aka face shaving) are like, actually what is UP in the beauty world right now. The general idea of using a blade for not just a method of hair removal, but also exfoliation, has been around for years but recently gained popularity. This procedure would be most comparable to a micro than any other exfoliation service. I like to compare them in terms of, downtime and post care, however, the actual procedure is much different and has a little added bonus. A dermaplane is done with a very fine sterile surgical scalpel (sounds scary, I know), held at a 45 degree angle that is used to “shave” the skin. With this shave, dead skin and vellus hairs (peach fuzz) are removed. Especially as women age, our skin not only slows down its dead skin turnover, but due to hormones- our faces tend to also get hairier, isn’t aging fun!? Our vellus hairs are basically a dead skin cell trap. EW. When removing the hair, you are also removing the superficial layer of dead skin, just like a micro. I am constantly being asked by clients if they can just go home and shave their own face. Please do not. This procedure is very precise and as much as it sounds like it is just “shaving” your face just like a normal razor would, it is not. An aesthetician, Mary Schook, explained the difference perfectly in an article I saw in Refinery29- "A shaver is built to shave the thick hair on our bodies, and it cuts hair in a crude, blunt way," says Schook. "Dermaplaning is like that scene in The Bodyguard, when Kevin Costner uses a samurai sword to cut the silk. It’s precise and effortless." With attempting to do this service at home, not only would you not be able to achieve nearly the same level of exfoliation as a professional dermaplane, but there is also much more of a risk to expose your skin to bacterial infections. Don’t be a fool, see your licensed Esthetician!!

**POST TREATMENT CARE AND INFO**

YOU GUYS!! THIS. IS. V. IMPORTANT. Got it? When receiving one of these services, you must understand that your skin needs to heal after! The healing and "babying" process typically takes around a week. During this week, you will most likely avoid any exfoliation and heat. This means, no direct sunlight, no intentional high heat (not only from environmental factors, but long hot showers and hot tubs as well), No retinol or other active acid products, no scrubs… bla bla you get the point. You basically just want to baby your skin for about 5-10 days post treatment to be sure you avoid any hyper pigmentation or scarring. It is essential that you not only have a post-care healing product for home, but also an SPF! Your service provider SHOULD be going over all of this information before and after your appointment, however, I think it is important information to be aware of before even booking such a service.

Also, a bit of advice- I always recommend booking a facial with your esthetician before diving into a more intense service such as any of these. I know you’re sitting there rolling your eyes thinking “girl, I want intense and I want it now, I’ma book what I want”- which is totally fine because being a sassy B my self, I get it. HOWEVER- these services are NOT for everyone so let's try and avoid any surprises come treatment day. There are contraindications, meaning- we (as licensed professionals) do not have to perform these treatments on anyone that we do not feel should have one. Common contraindications are: pregnancy, sunburn, certain medications such as Accutane, active acne inflammation, the use of retinol and/or botox injections too close to the service date… etc etc etc! This is why I feel it is important to have an initial facial service with your esthetic provider before booking an exfoliation service. This way, not only can your Esthetician really analyze your skin, but also, you can be best prepared and informed for your next service.

TAKE IT ALLLLLL OFF MY LITTLE BLOOMERS! (Dead skin that is... or anything you're comfortable with I guess... but DEFINITELY the dead skin)

Peace.Love&Skin

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